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I like good food.

If you’ve met me it’s not a stretch to recognise this. My philosophy has been that life should be enjoyed in big bites. As the man said, ‘moderation is for monks’. However, as I progress into my sixth decade, I’ve learned to turn the volume back down from 11 occasionally. Rather than a 48 ounce Porterhouse (I wish I was kidding when I say I ate the whole thing) I now enjoy a 12-ounce Flatiron, or some sliced flank–or even a nice vegetarian meal (I know, I know, eating vegetables is bad for the environment, but they’re so delicious!)

But when it’s time for something rich and tasty, you should never skimp: have one great Martini instead of three crappy ones. Eat a small bar of really good chocolate rather than a bunch of gritty cheap stuff. You get the drift–less is more, if it’s better.

Today I was in the mood for something really, really rich. I was in my butcher, the same hilariously squeamish chap who brings me in various animal parts while wincing (seriously, you’d think he never saw anyone have a conversation with a severed pig’s head before!). The display case held precisely two small, perfect objects.

Marrow bones, a section of the leg bone of a calf. I knew right then that they must be mine. I took them home, seasoned them liberally with Sel Gris and cracked pepper and popped them in a 450 degree convection oven for 20 minutes.

While they roasted, filling the house with a heavenly smell, I sauteed a few brown mushrooms in good Irish butter and a wee bit of garlic and prepared a nice piece of Tuscan bread toast.

The middle of the bones is hot, rich and delicious. Dragged out with a spoon and smeared onto the toast, it was the perfect rich-but-not-overwhelming accompaniment to a glass of Pinot Noir.

Now, what’s for dinner?

Original: http://www.dieselsweeties.com/archive/3686

I have actually attended a seminar entitled, ‘YOU are Your Brand!’ It gives me visions of

But as the man said, I am my own brand. If you follow me on Twitter, I am now @Wine_Guy_Tim, to save confusion from previous branding for my old company. Same old Tim with a great new name!

I spent quite a bit of time this fall talking about Super Tuscan and it got me thinking about the connection between tradition and terroir. Tradition is at the heart of European winemaking–when something has been tried and tested for fifteen or twenty centuries, it tends to stick around, sometimes without regard for absolute quality.

Terroir is supposed to be what informs tradition. The unique character of the soil, sunlight, climate, geolocation, and innumerable other factors will eventually inform grape growers which varieties will thrive and make the best wines in any location. Terroir goes off the rails when growers and producers quit asking if their wine could be better and simply stick with what was acceptable last time.

Case in point is the wine I’ve been promoting for weeks: Super Tuscan. Tuscany, arguably the heart of Italian food and wine culture, produces Chianti. Over time the recipe for Chianti calcified into a formula that was eventually made into law under the DOC rules, which mandated a maximum of 70% Sangiovese and at least 10% white grapes, harking back to field blending traditions. Unfortunately, although these traditions are charming and, well, traditional, they don’t make the best wine. Well-grown, low-cropped Sangiovese Grosso grapes would make far better wine by themselves, without the addition of the other grapes. No matter, according to DOC laws: that’s the way it would be done, forever.

Until the Antinori’s got into the act. This Tuscan wine family deliberately set about breaking the law, delightful scoundrels that they were, and planted Cabernet Sauvignon in their vineyards. They blended it with Sangiovese (and no white grapes) and aged it in small, brand-new oak barrels rather than gigantic, characterless casks that were more typical of the general Italian winemaking techniques. The resulting wine, released in 1978 caused a sensation, on many levels. It had the hallmarks of Bordeaux–Cabernet structure, tannin and fruit, with well-developed oak and a distinct lack of Brettanomyces (an infection conferred from very old barrels, all too common in Italy at the time) and the length and dry finish of Italy, with an almost almond/cherry pit note.

On one of the other levels, the Italian wine authorities went mad. Super Tuscans could only be sold under the designation ‘Vino di Tavola’, a name reserved for wine only fit for people who lived under bridges or for wine used to put out fires. No matter: it was brilliant and delicious, and many other wineries followed suit, most notably Tenuta San Guido who made the well-regarded Sassicaia. The concept even spread to other Italian appellations, such as Piedmont and Veneto, and Super Tuscan wines sold for far more money than mere Chianti could command.

Realising the situation was beyond them, and that Super Tuscan was becoming a more credible and desirable brand than Chianti, the laws were finally changed so that by the early 90’s most of the wine could be sold under the Chianti designation, or the new  IGT Toscana and DOC Bolgheri designations.

The upshot of the whole situation was that producers recognised tradition had trumped terroir, and by trying new grapes and new techniques, they could exploit the very best of their terroir to create something wholly new, and wholly better than tradition could deliver. Soon enough others copied their ideas, helping create the ‘Garagiste’ movement, a semi-sneering designation that connotes eccentric amateurs trying to craft fine wine from a humble garage.

But craft they can. Chateau Le Pin in Bordeaux’s Pomerol appellation is only 5 acres and produces a spare 600 cases per year, but the wines are astounding, crafted in the fruit-forward new world style more common from Australia or California, very lush and showy, not at all a Bordeaux-typical wine, but like Super Tuscans it sells for more than other Chateau of higher rank, sometimes clocking in as the most expensive wine in the world.

As time passes and younger, less hidebound winemakers come on scene, more of these outlaw wines are coming to market. A few years ago I encountered a completely unexpected ‘Vinos Sin Ley’ (literally ‘wine without law’!) from Spain.

Utterly unexpected, it was another example of circumventing tradition to take old grapes and teach them new tricks: bold, rich and full of stunning fruit, it was nothing like the Riojas I was used to drinking, and I loved it so much I bought a case on the spot.

The latest example of lawbreaker wines is coming out of the Rhône in France. Famous for wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there are 18 allowed varieties in their blends, but the stars are Grenache and Syrah. Upstart Chêne Bleu is repeating the successes of the other lawbreakers and crafting wines based on new techniques and an exegetic analysis of the potential of their terroir. I can only imagine that their wines are going to be amazing as well.

Tradition produces beautiful results. It gives us history, depth and a surety of outcome. But at some point tradition has to be examined for success, and have a light shone onto it to see what flaws time has revealed, and what new ideas and new thinking can bring. In the case of wine I’ve never felt that pitching out tradition willy-nilly benefited anyone, but likewise challenging results and exploiting the full potential of a vineyard’s terroir can only result in better wine.

Off on the road again, another whirlwind adventure. I’m doing some retailer seminars (on winemaking and retailing consumer wine products, naturally) around the Eastern USA, and then a quick turnaround and I’ll be off to make some promo videos and do the first of my Limited Edition presentations for the year. It’s a lot of time on the road and my poor suffering cat is already at full-mope.

Ah, poor fella. I’ll bring him home a cheesesteak, I guess.

In the cool-news part of my life, I got my logo back from the designer I hired. I don’t really need a logo, and haven’t decided what I’ll be doing with it, but gosh knows I’ve got one now:

Off to the airport. Whee!

See the little nuclei
Bursting full of information
There’s a need to regulate
Bring it down to cells and plasma

Tell you what they’re gonna do
Started doing it already
Got to find something new
Looking for it in genetix

Found a new game to play
Think it’s impossible to lose
Messing round at playing God
Easy way to play genetix

Stranglers, Genetix, from the album Raven

There’s nothing like a good Stranglers tune to warm the heart of an old punk/beergeek. Which brings me to an interesting article from the New York Times,  Strange Brews: the Genes of Craft Beer.

White Labs, an important supplier of yeast to both the craft and the homebrew market, is engaging in an amazing effort to sequence the DNA of brewing yeast. Currently they’re at 240 strains, but there are thousands out there to go. They’re partnered with a biotech lab that’s a joint venture between the Flanders Institute for Biotechnology and the University of Leuven, Belgium.

So why sequence the yeast? After all, it’s one of the best-understood and most-studied organisms on the planet. From the Times article:

By getting a line-by-line reading of the 12 million molecules that make up the DNA of each yeast, Dr. Verstrepen said, the researchers will be able not only to tell how closely related two yeasts are (is Sam Adams’s closer to Stone’s, or Sierra Nevada’s?) but to answer other important questions: which breweries started with the same strains of yeasts, how these organisms evolved over time and, of course, how all of it translates to taste.

“Yeasts can make over 500 flavor and aroma compounds,” said Chris White, the founder of White Labs, affecting a beer’s alcohol level, clarity and texture. But while brewing yeast is one of the best-studied organisms in molecular and cell biology, exactly how its genes translate to brewing properties is still poorly understood.

By comparing the DNA of hundreds of yeasts, along with information on how they act and brew differently, “we’ll have a unique window into the genetic code,” said Mr. Prahl, who is leading the experiment at White Labs. He is comparing each yeast’s sequencing information with brewing data on more than 2,000 batches of beer — including the four he was tasting.

This is super-cool. When I started making my own beer three and half decades ago, there were maybe five strains of yeast available. Not much changed for decades, but as homebrewers evolved into craft brewers, the demand for new strains, and pure strains increased, until today we have hundreds of distinct and different yeast to choose from.

Yeast is responsible for more that 70% of the flavour in beer–you can produce a batch of wort (the word for unfermented beer), split it into ten lots, ferment each lot with a different strain of yeast, and at tasting time you’d swear each one was completely different beer, from different brews. By learning the specific genes that control flavour and aroma production, and crossing yeast to maximise desirable characteristics, they’re going to be able to manufacture yeast that not only make fabulous tasting beer, but also yeast that are less environmentally demanding, more stable and easier to use/more flocculant/better fermenting, etc.

Of course, the idea that these yeast are being genetically manipulated rears it’s (block)head. For anyone who’s worried about that, it’s a non-issue. Using multiple yeast strains and sticking with the best ones has been going on for centuries, long before Pasteur came up with the germ theory of fermentation (only 150 years ago they didn’t know what yeast was: they referred to the action of fermentation as an act of god, and the middle-English used to call yeast froth ‘godisgoode’). And since they’re only working with yeast and yeast, it’s not a transgenic organism, merely an improved version–kind of like me after my morning coffee.

I for one am stoked about the whole process. We’re learning new things about the yeast we currently use, we’re going to be able to get more utility out of new strains, and the beer will be better than ever. I can’t wait to talk to Chris and his team to find out what’s coming down the pike for us homebrewers.

I bet it’s going to be great.